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Spain is home to hundreds of indigenous grape varieties, countless small family wineries and regions producing wines that many people have never even heard of. Yet many restaurant wine lists still play it safe, relying on the same familiar names because they're what customers recognise and they don't have the time or energy to explore other options.

Things are moving ‘at the rate of knots’ in the world of sparkling wines, and within Spain there has been ‘a rising swell’…